Showing posts with label food. Show all posts
Showing posts with label food. Show all posts

Sunday, December 03, 2006

Classic Restaurant Rivalries (or: Food Feuds)

Italian Heros
Manganaro's Hero Boy versus Manganaro's Food & Restaurant
The New York Times calls it "one of the city's longest and messiest food fights." Salvatore Manganaro, 74, and his youngest brother, James, 66, own Italian sandwich stores next to each other on Hell's Kitchen's Ninth Avenue. The family has been running these businesses for 100 years, and the two brothers have been giving each other the silent treatment for the past 25 years over who has the right to use their family's name and who can claim to have invented the 6-foot hero sandwich. As one young reviewer said, "this feud has been going on for far longer than I’ve been alive, and I’d bet for long after I’m dead."



Pizza
Lombardi’s vs. Totonno’s vs. John’s vs. Patsy’s vs. Grimaldi’s
If you were to draw a family tree of New York pizza, Lombardi's, started in 1905, would be the grandpapi of the clan. Pizzamakers trained at Lombardi's went on to open Totonno's in Coney Island (Anthony Totonno Pero in 1917), John's Pizza in the Village (John Sasso in 1929), and Patsy's in East Harlem (Patsy Lancieri in 1933). In the third generation of pizzarias spawned from Lombardi's, Patsy Lancieri's nephew Patsy Grimaldi, who had worked at Patsy's since he was 10 years old, opened Grimaldi's in Brooklyn Heights in 1990.




Indonesian
Minangasli versus Padang Raya (RIP)
First, Rahman Imansjah was a customer at Nani Tanzil's warung run out of her kitchen. In June 2004, he bought a restaurant, Padang Raya, and they became business partners. They made it to February of 2005. He fired Tanzil, and six months later she opened Minangasli four doors away on Whitney Avenue. The New York Times explains that "the name of her restaurant, which means 'authentically Minang' and is a reference to a Padang ethnic group, is a not-so-subtle dig at her former partner," who is from Kalimantan Island, a culinarily different area of Indonesia. In April of 2006, Padang Raya became Jakarta Mie, a Javanese noodle warung.



Cupcakes
Magnolia versus Buttercup et cetera.
Magnolia has spawned a cupcake family line of Old Testament proportions, complete with rivalries, hatred, and a creation myth. Jennifer Appel of Magnolia acknowledges she didn't invent cupcakes (see, she's humble!), but lays claim to the specific type of cupcake cafe which she sees replicated around the city, most bitterly at Buttercup, which she started with was started by her former business partner Allysa Torey. Appel's franchising director says “She’s like the cupcake godmother. If you did a family tree of cupcakes in New York, she spawned out the seven families. She’s the Don Corleone of cupcakes.”



Philly Cheesesteak
Pat's versus Geno's (Philadelphia)
Pat Olivieri, who opened Pat's King of Steaks as a hot dog stand near South Philadelphia's Italian Market back in 1930, claims to have invented the Philly Cheesesteak. Geno's opened in 1967, and they've stared each other down across a barren patch of South Philly pavement like Apollo Creed and Rocky Balboa ever since. Geno's owner Joe Vento claims that they made the cheesesteak what it is today by being the first to add cheese, although they concede that Pat's is responsible for the later introduction of Cheese Whiz (thus adding the phrase 'whiz wit' to American English). And, of course, they hate each other. Vento explains that the reason people eat at Pat's is that "you can acquire a taste for bad food."

Where are they?
Manganaro's Hero Boy, 492 Ninth Ave., between 37th and 38th Sts; 212 947-7325
Manganaro's Food & Restaurant, 488 Ninth Ave., between 37th and 38th Sts; 212-563-5331
Lombardi’s, 32 Spring Street, New York; 212 941-7994
John’s Pizzeria, 278 Bleecker Street, New York; 212 243-1680
Totonno’s Pizzeria Napolitano, 1524 Neptune Avenue, Brooklyn; 718 372-8606
Grimaldi's, 19 Old Fulton Street, Brooklyn, 718 858-4300
Minangasli, 86-10 Whitney Avenue at Macnish Street, Elmhurst, Queens; 718 429-8207.
Magnolia Bakery, 401 Bleecker St. @ 11th St.; 212 462-2572
Buttercup Bake Shop, 973 2nd Ave between 51st & 52nd St; 212 350-4144
Pat's King of Steaks, 1237 E Passyunk Ave, Philadelphia; 215 468-1546
Geno's Steaks, 1219 S 9th St, Philadelphia, 215 389-0659

Got a rivalry to suggest? Write me.

Sunday, November 19, 2006

Staten Island Pizza Ride

Last weekend I set off with biking buddies Anna and Etan to do a Staten Island bike ride to the major Staten Island pizza places. Nunzio's, Denino's, and Nucci's, as the most commonly top-rated SI pizza places, were on the itinerary. Pat & Joe's was a little too far off the route, but I want to hit it next time.

It was a fast seven mile ride along the south shore waterfront from the ferry to our first stop. Nunzio's is on a very busy suburban-esque intersection. There's a sit-down restaurant, and a separate entrance for take-out. At first glance it looked like we were going to have to chow our slices on the sidewalk, but then we saw that there was a long counter inside the take-out entrance. Etan spied on the kitchen and reported back that their cheese method is to cut the cheese into blocks, rather than grating it thinly on top - a method that supposedly keeps the cheese from breaking down as fast at high temperatures. The slice was decent, but the crust was too thick for my taste. If I want Sicilian, I'll order Sicilian. But the hand-grated parm on the counter was a nice touch, and there was a basil leaf baked into each of our slices that was delish.

Back on our bikes. On the way to Denino's, we saw a decrepit brick building covered with graffiti. Of course, we had to explore. We thought it was a state institution called Willowbrook that was shut down in the 80s, but it turned out to be a poorhouse, as in what you read about in Dickens, as in the forerunner to the shelter system. Stay posted for more on this.

By the time we got to Denino's, they were no longer serving slices (when we got there they told us they only serve slices until 3pm). That was a bummer. Denino's been around since 1937, and definitely had the best Island atmosphere of all three places. But all of us had neglected to bring lights for our bikes and it was getting dark, so we hauled ass, courtesy of Etan's GPS gadget, to our third and final stop.

Nucci's was in a small suburban strip mall. The teenagers working there made me flash back to my own suburban childhood, but luckily for all I didn't start crying. The pizza was excellent. Thin crust, good sauce, good proportion of cheese. More hand-grated parm on the counter. Is this a Staten Island thing? Regardless, I like it.

So. Bottom line? Staten Island didn't quite live up to its pizza hype, but it's got a damn fine slice if you happen to be there. And if you can combine it with some urban exploration, even better.

Photo at Nunzio's by Anna Le Mon.

Thursday, August 10, 2006

Biking for Kebabs & Italian Ice

Biked up to Queens last night with my biking buddy Anna (hereinafter "BBA"). From Brooklyn, it was a cool 11 miles out to Rego Park, where we were met with juicy kebabs at Cheburechnaya. Our waitress was supremely helpful and just as amused by us. When I asked her to recommend something, she said "this is Cheburechenaya, so get the chebureki!" We followed her advice and got the chebureki, which are basically Uzbeki samosas, and lulya, lamb, and chicken kebabs. We were still hungry after that so we got babaganosh to go with the Uzbek bread (right), which looks like matzoh but is slightly less dry and tastier. Although decent, the baba was a little too mayonnaisey for our taste, so next time I'd skip the baba and stick with the more centrally Uzbek food.

Then we biked up to Corona to hit the Lemon Ice King of Corona. Man, Corona is like some quaint little village that was just dropped into the middle of New York. OK, I know that a lot of Queens is like this. But still. You gotta go check it out. As for the ice, I was thrilled with the raspberry but BBA was underwhelmed with the mint chip. My guess is that, per their name, the fruit flavors are the way to go.

Across from the Lemon Ice King is Corona's main park, a small village square with overhanging trees and benches and - most importantly - a very serious bocce court. At 9pm on a Wednesday night, the benches were lined with people feverishly debating bocce calls. After that, we were pretty food-dazed so we picked up some Ukranian beer in Forest Hills for the subway ride and hit the F train.

Grand total: 11 miles, $10 (chebureki, 2 kebabs, bread, baba), $1.25 ice, $1.39 beer. Bocce game: priceless.

About the ride itself - it was really fast getting up to Queens, definitely faster than taking the subway. Myrtle was a little hairy, but aside from that the rest of the route was pretty smooth. The route basically goes Fort Greene -- Bed-Stuy -- Bushwick -- Ridgewood (historically claimed by both Brooklyn and Queens) -- Middle Village -- Rego Park -- Corona -- Forest Hills. Click the map to see it larger, or go to WalkJogRun for the entire cue sheet for the ride.

Friday, June 30, 2006

Sonja's Pocket Eats Guide

Here tis. Way too much time spent on this labor of love, lemme tell ya. At long last, here is a two page pocket guide of the best and most lauded cheap eats in the City, organized by borough and neighborhood. It's got a handy tri-fold so it'll fit into your back pocket, ready to get grease-stained and worn. Click on each page to enlarge & print it (remember to print or photocopy it double-sided).

Reviews and an interactive map for each borough:
The interactive map is searchable by restaurant name or your location, and includes many great places that don't fit on my two-page pocket guide.
The Bronx: reviews :: map
Manhattan: reviews :: map
Brooklyn: reviews :: map
Queens: reviews :: map
Staten Island: reviews :: map
Jersey: reviews :: map

Two Page Pocket Eats Guide:
I'm working on getting this higher quality (anyone know how to upload pdfs or docs to blogger?). Until then, if you want a better copy, email me at sonjashield@gmail.com.

Wednesday, June 28, 2006

Places to Eat - Queens

ASTORIA
Philoxenia (Village Voice) - 26-18 23rd Ave between 26th & 27th St. Greek. Possibly still closed.
*Koliba (Chowhound) - 31-11 23rd Ave. Czech-expat bar w/food.

Zlata Praha (Village Voice, Chowhound) - 28-48 31st St between Newtown & 30th Aves. Touristy Czech.
*Cevabdzinica Sarajevo (TwentyADay)- 37-18 34th Ave @ 38th St. Bosnian
.
Papa's Empanadas (Village Voice) - 25-51 Steinway St. between 25th & 28th Ave. Columbian.

Sabry's (Village Voice) - 24-25 Steinway St. Alexandrian seafood emporium.
Zenon (Chowhound) - 34-10 31 Ave, between 34 and 35 streets. Cypriot.
Istrian Sport Club (Newsday, Chowhound, TONY) - 28-09 Astoria Blvd between 28th and 29th Sts, Astoria. Italian & Eastern European comfort f
ood.
Eastern Nights (Village Voice) - 35-25 Steinway St. between 35th & 36th Ave. Egyptian.
Kabab Café (Village Voice) - 25-12 Steinway St between 25th & 28th Ave. Kabobs.
Stamatis (Village Voice) - 31-14 Broadway @ Steinway St. Greek.
*Muncan (Chowhound) - 43-09 Broadway @ 43rd St. Albanian.

Crispino's Famous Italian Ices (NY Daily News)- 203-20 35th Ave @ 203rd St. Italian.
Bohemian Hall & Beer Garden (Village Voice, New Yorker, Chowhound) - 29-19 24th Ave @ 29th St. Czech beer garden.
Hidalgo Mexican Food Products (NY Times) - 30-11 29th St @ 30th Ave, Astoria. Mexican grocery
store/deli.
Cafe Kolonaki (NY Times) - 33-02 Broadway @ 33rd St, Astoria. Frappés.
General Astoria recommendations: see this Chowhound thread

LONG ISLAND CITY
Padaria Pao Nosso (Village Voice) - 37-03 31st Ave @ 37 St. Brazilian bakery.
Five Star Punjabi (Hungry Cabbie) - 315 43rd Ave btween 21st St & 13th St. Punjabi, Sikh cabbie haunt.
Tournesol (Village Voice) - 50-12 Vernon Blvd @ 50th Ave. New American.

Easy Street Lounge & Bar (NY Metro) - 36-18 Greenpoint Ave. Dive bar, cavernous ex-auto-repair shop.
Manducatis (NY Times, NY Bits, James Beard, NY Metro, RealEats) - 13-27 Jackson Ave between 47th Ave & 47th Rd. Classic Italian.

El Sitio De Astoria (NY Times) - 35-55 31st St between 35th & 36th Aves, Long Island City. Batidos.

FLUSHING
Ko Hang Soft Tofu (Village Voice) - 137-40 Northern Boulevard between College Pt & Parson Blvd. Tofu parlor.
Sichuan Dynasty (Village Voice, NY Mag, TONY)- 135-32 40th Rd between Main & Prince Sts. Sichuan.
Spicy & Tasty (Village Voice) - 37-09 Prince St between College Pt & Main St. Sichuan. Closed?
*Sentosa (Village Voice) - 39-07 Prince St @ 39th. "The city's premier Malaysian," says Sietsema.
Happy Family (Village Voice) - 36-35 Main St @ Northern Boulevard. Northern Chinese.
El Vincentino (Village Voice) - 43-37 162nd St between 43rd & 45th Ave. Salvadoran.
Everbest (Village Voice) - 41-01 Kissena Blvd between Roosevelt & 41st Ave, Flushing. South Chinese
and Malaysian.
Dumpling Stall (Village Voice) - 40-52 Main St between Roosevelt & 41st Ave. Dumplings.
Afghan Kabab Palace (Village Voice) - 75-07 Parsons Blvd @ 75 Ave. Afghan.

Malagueta (Village Voice) - 25-35 36th Ave @ 28th St. Brazilian.
San Hai Jin Mi (Hungry Cabbie) - 36-24 Union St. Korean bbq, bulgogi.


JACKSON HEIGHTS
Pollos a La Brasa Mario (Village Voice) - 81-01 Roosevelt Ave @ 81 St.; 86-13 Roosevelt Ave.; 83-02 37th Ave. Colombian rotisseries.
Himalayan Yak (Village Voice) - 72-20 Roosevelt Ave between 72th & Broadway. Tibetan.

Tawa Deli (Village Voice) - 37-38 72nd St. Just Indian breads - paratha.
Karihan Ni Tata Bino (Village Voice) - 71-34 Roosevelt between 72nd St & Broadway. Filipino.
*Arunee Thai (Village Voice) - 37-68 79th St between 37th & Roosevelt. Thai.
El Chivito D'oro (TONY, OpenList) - 84-02 37 Ave @ 84 St. Uruguayan parrillada.
Zabb (Village Voice) - 71-28 Roosevelt Ave between 72nd & Broadway. Isaan Thai.

Indian Taj (Village Voice) - 37-25 74th St. All-you-can-eat buffet.
*La Portena (Village Voice, NY Metro) - 74-25 37th Ave between 74th & 75th St. Argentine grill.
*The Arepa Lady (New Yorker, Cheapo New York, Chowhound) - NW corner, Roosevelt Ave & 79th St. Columbian.

Los Chuzos y Algo Más (NY Times) - 79-01 Roosevelt Ave, Jackson Heights. Batidos.
Ranger Texas Barbeque (TONY) - 71-04 35th Ave btwn 71st and 72nd Sts, Jackson Heights. Barbeque.


WOODSIDE
*Sripraphai (Village Voice)- 64-13 39th Ave. Thai.
Ihawan (Village Voice) - 40-06 70th St @ Roosevelt Ave. Filipino barbecue joint.
Izalco (Village Voice) - 64-05 Roosevelt Ave @ 64th St & 39th Ave. Salvadoran.
Mi Bolivia (Village Voice) - 44-10 48th Ave between 44th & 45th St. Bolivian.


ELMHURST
Minangasli (Village Voice) - 86-10 Whitney Ave @ Broadway. Indonesian.
Mie Jakarta (Village Voice) - 86-20 Whitney Ave. Indonesian.
Mum Mam 1 Thai Cuisine (Chowhound) - 77-05 Woodside Ave @ 77th St. Thai.
Upi Jaya (Village Voice) - 76-04 Woodside Ave @ 76th St. Sumatran Indonesian.
Samwongahk (Village Voice) - 82-53 Broadway @ Elmhurst. Korean-Chinese café.
Warteg Fortuna (Village Voice) - 51-24 Roosevelt Ave between 43rd Ave & Queens Blvd. Working-class Indonesian.
*La Fusta (Village Voice) - 82-32 Baxter Ave, near Elmhurst hospital. Argentine grill.
Laura's Bakery (NY Times) - 90-18 Corona Ave, Elmhurst. Avena, champu.
Mazorca (Village Voice) - 83-17 Northern Boulevard, East Elmhurst. Columbian snacks.

SUNNYSIDE
Mangal (Village Voice) - 46-20 Queens Blvd & 47 St. Turkish lunch counter.
Romanian Garden (NYFood, TONY) - 46-04 Skillman Ave between 46th & 47th St. Romanian.


REGO PARK (The New York Times on Rego Park's Bukharian community)
*Cheburechnaya (Village Voice, Bridge & Tunnel Club) - 92-09 63rd Dr @ Austin, Rego Park. Uzbek kebab.
Shalom Restaurant (Village Voice, Bridge & Tunnel Club) 64-47 108th St between 64th Rd & 65th Ave, Rego Park. Central Asian Jewish - Bukharan.
Ben's Best (NY Times) - 96-40 Queens Blvd @ 63rd Drive, Rego Park. Incredible pastrami.
Cafe Arzu (Chowhound) - Queens Blvd near 67th Ave. Central Asian.


FOREST HILLS / KEW GARDENS / RICHMOND HILL
Salut (Village Voice, NY Mag, NY Metro, the Sterns, Jewish Forward) - 63-42 108th St between 63 Rd & 63 Dr, Forest Hills. Kosher Uzbeki.
Mickey's Place (Village Voice, Chowhound) - 101-16 Queens Blvd @ 67 Rd, Forest Hills. Neighborhood Japanese.
Eddie's (NY Times) - 105-29 Metropolitan Ave @ 72nd Ave, Forest Hills. Old-fashioned ice cream parlor.
*Uzbekistan Tandoori Bread (Bukharian Jews, Village Voice) - 120-35 83rd Ave @ Lefferts Blvd, Kew Gardens. Uzbekistani.
Jahn's (NY Times) - 117-03 Hillside Ave, Richmond Hill. Ice cream parlor.
Singh's Roti Shop #3 (Village Voice) - 118-06 Liberty Ave @ Lefferts, Richmond Hill. Guyanese and Trinidadian.

CORONA
Corona Heights Pork Store (NY Times) - 107-04 Corona Ave, Corona Heights, Queens. Hot heros.
Leo's Latticini (NY Times) - 46-02 104th St, Corona, Queens. Hot heros, homemade mozzarella.
*Lemon Ice King of Corona (About.com, photo)- 52-02 108th St., Corona, Queens. Italian ices.
La Vega (NY Times) - 103-07 Roosevelt Ave, Corona, Queens. Mexican grocery / restaurant.


MISC. QUEENS & LONG ISLAND
Pique y Pase (Village Voice) - 110-04 Lefferts Ave @ 109th Ave, Fresh Meadows, Queens. Ecuadoran.
Sol Bawoo (Village Voice) - 41-10 149th Place, Murray Hill, 41 Ave/Barclay, Fresh Meadows, Queens. Korean BBQ.
Indian Oasis (Village Voice) - 184-22 Horace Harding Expressway, Fresh Meadows, Queens, nr Kissena. Chinese/Indian.
La Xelaju (Queens Press, Chowhound)- 87-52 168 St near Hillside Avenue, Jamaica, Queens. Guatemalan.
Book Kyung Won (Village Voice) - 253-22 Northern Boulevard, Little Neck, Queens. Korean.
Fiza Diner (Village Voice) - 259-07 Hillside Avenue, Floral Park. Tandoori.
Taste of Portugal (NY Times, Chowhound) - 1075 Portion Rd, Farmingville. Portuguese.
Divers Cove (NY Metro) - 29-01 Francis Lewis Blvd, Bayside. Bona fide neighborhood tavern.

Tuesday, June 13, 2006

Places to Eat - Staten Island, Jersey

STATEN ISLAND
(who knew there were neighborhoods in Staten Island?!)
NEW JERSEY
More on Newark’s Portuguese and Brazilian Ironbound neighborhood by eGullet, the NY Times, and Wikipedia, and on how the Portuguese settled in Newark and the greater Northeast here.